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EG/EK Mods & Upgrades-Updated 25Nov08 Revising-NO TCSS!
Post by garilee » Tue May 30, 2006 10:09 am
Hope these info is useful to bros / sis who want to upgrade their EG/EK rides. Most of the info are from lessons learn during my DIYs on my previous ESI & current EK4. Some info may be applicable to SOHC EG/EK and DOHC EG/EK:
1) FRONT BRAKES (Handling) Rating 10/10
Info:
(i)ESI/LSI (EH9/EG5/EG8/EG4) front brake rotors are 242mm in diameter with PCD 4X100.
(ii)EG6/EG9/EK3/EK4 front brake rotors are 262mm in diameter with PCD 4X100.
(iii)DC2 TypeR 98version onwards/ EK9/ Odessey/ Perlude front brake rotors are 282mm in diameter with PCD 5X114.3.
(iv)DC2 TypeR 96version front brake rotors are 262mm in diameter with PCD 4X114.3.
(v)Size of brake caliper pistons are: (i) < (ii) < (iii) & (iv). Means calipers from (iii) & (iv) have the biggest caliper pistons so more braking power.
(vi)Brakes from (iii) with 282mm rotors clears most 15"rims.
(vii)Front brakes are most important. But too big will affect yr brake balance/bias. If not upgrading the rear brakes, max advisable is 282mm.
Upgrade:
(a) Those in (i) can upgrade to Mitsubishi EVO3 front brakes (2pot caliper + 286mm rotors). If i remember correctly, only the calipers need some skim and is direct fit. However, it may be a problem if u need to replace the rotors coz its not easily available.
(b) Those in (i) can upgrade to (ii) but must use with the knuckles from (ii). No knuckles, brakes wont fit. Means getting the knuckles+caliper+brake rotor. Items are direct fit, no mods required. U also need to send yr car for realignment. If already using knuckles from (ii), u can also consider going for bigger brakes from (iii) & (iv). See (c) & (d) below.
(c) Those in (ii) can upgrade to (iii). Need to get the caliper+brake rotor. The rotors need to be re-drilled 4XPCD100 and the caliper brackets needs abit of machine skim (abt 3mm) for direct fit. The drill & machine costs is about $80-$100. No need to send car for realignment.
(d) Those in (ii) can upgrade to (iv). Just need to get the caliper. Reuse yr stock 262mm rotors. The caliper brackets needs abit of machine skim (abt 3mm) for direct fit. The drill & machine costs is about $40-$60. No need to send car for realignment.
2) BRAKE HOSES (Handling) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)ESI & LSI (EH9/EG5/EG8/EG4) and EG6/EG9/EK3/EK4 brake hoses should be compatible.
(ii)Stock brake hose is made of rubber & prone to flexing during hard braking.
Upgrade:
(a)Steel braided hose to replace the rubber brake hoses (gives u a harder feel=more responsive) Price avg between $150-200 include labour. Very important to ensure that proper brake bleeding is peformed.
3) MASTER BRAKE CYCLINDER (Handling) Rating 8/10
Info:
(i) Big black round pancake looking thing mounted on yr engine firewall with the brake fluid reservoir pump.
(ii)There are 2 components. The master air pump (more layers=more air=better brake response) & the brake fluid cyclinder (bigger internal piston=more pressure=more response).
(iii)ESI & LSI (EH9/EG5/EG8/EG4) Master air pump is single layer.
(iv)EG6/EG9/EK3/EK4/DC2/EK9 master air pump is double layer.
(v)The biggest brake fluid cyclinder (in terms of piston size) comes from DC2r and EK9.
(vi)There are 2 types of brake fluid cyclinder. Those cars without ABS, both the brake piping is same size. For brake fluid cyclinder that comes from cars with ABS, 1 of the brake pipe is bigger size.
Upgrade:
(a) Those in (iii) can upgrade to (iv) and best to get the brake fluid cyclinder together. Its direct fit but need to take note of point (vi) cause you may need to custom 1 of the brake pipe.
(b) Those in (iv) or those using big 4-pot brakes can upgrade to (v). Direct fit but also take note of point (vi).
4) BRAKE PADS (Handling) Rating 8/10
Info:
(i)Bigger brake calipers use bigger pads. See point (1) above.
(ii)High temp pads have more "bite" but there is tendency to wear off your rotors faster. Best to select a moderate temp rating to suit yr driving needs.
Upgrade:
(a) There are many aftermarket brands available like Bendix, Mintex etc. For normal & occasional track use, I find best to use max 650degree pads.
5) REAR BRAKES (Handling) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)ESI (EH9/EG5) and EG6/EG9/EK3/EK4 rear brake rotor is 240mm with PCD4X100.
(ii)LSI (EG4/EG8) use rear drum brakes.
(ii)DC2R 98version onwards and EK9 use 262mm rear rotors with PCD 5X114.3.
Upgrade:
(a) For LSI, the rear drum brakes can be converted to rear disc brakes from (i). But alot of swap work involve, including the brake pipings. Very important to include the brake valves. Not really worth the effort.
(b) For those in (i), most engine set-up dont warrant the need to upgrade the rear brakes unless your front brakes are going above 282mm. In that case, it will be better to do a full Dc2r or EK9 chassis swap which includes the rear 262mm brakes.
6) STRUCT BARS (Handling) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)ESI/LSI (EH9/EG5/EG8/EG4/EK3) do not come with any struct bars.
(ii)EG6/EG9/EK4/DC2/EK9 comes with oem front steel tower struct bar.
(iii)DC2 TypeR 98version onwards comes with oem front aluminum tower struct bar.
(iv)Struct bars for (i), (ii) and (iii) are compatible and direct fit.
Upgrade:
(a)To strengthen the car chassis, it is good to install struct bars to prevent too much body flex especially during hard corners. The common types are front tower bar (install in the engine bay), rear tower bar (install in the boot), front lower tie bar (at the undercarriage, juz below the driveshafts), rear lower tie bar (at the rear undercarriage, between the rear lower arms).
(b)In order of effectiveness, front tower bar then rear lower tie bar then rear tower bar then front lower tie bar. Got $, install all.
7) ANTI ROLL BARS (Handling) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)LSI (EG8/EG4) do not come with any anti-roll bars.
(ii)ESI(EH9/EG5)/EG6/EG9/EK3 comes with oem front (22mm) & rear (12mm) anti roll bars.
(iii)EK4 comes with oem front (26mm)& rear (15mm)anti roll bars.
(iv)DC2 TypeR comes with oem front (24/25mm) & rear (22/23mm) anti roll bars.
(v)EK9 comes with oem front (26mm) & rear (22mm)anti roll bars.
(vi) (iii) and (v) are compatible and direct fit.
(vii) (ii) and (iv) are compatible and direct fit.
(viii) The thicker the bars, the lesser the car body flexes/roll. Going too big without strengthing other areas may cause faster wear & tear, especially on chassis, bushings & suspension. RULE OF THUMB: The rear bar cannot be bigger then the front.
Upgrade:
(a) Those in (i) can upgrade to (ii) but must use with the front & rear lower control arms from (ii). No arms, u cant secure the anti roll bars. Means getting the lower arms+anti-roll bars+anti-roll bar bushing+anti-roll bar mounting brackets. Items are direct fit, no mods required. If already using lower arms from (ii), u can also consider going for bigger bars from (iv). See (b) below.
(b) Those in (ii) can upgrade to (iv). The front bar is direct fit. Means getting the front anti-roll bar+anti-roll bar bushings+anti-roll bar mounting brackets. For the rear bar, u need to send the mounting brackets to exhaust shops to mod so that the bar can secure properly.
(b) Those in (iii) can upgrade to the rear bar from (v). Means getting the rear anti-roll bar+anti-roll bar bushings+anti-roll bar mounting brackets. Similiarly u need to send the mounting brackets to exhaust shops to mod so that the bar can secure properly. If not, there are aftermarket brace plates available for direct bolt on.
8 ) SUSPENSION (Handling) Rating 8/10
Info:
(i)EH9/EG4/EG5/EG6/EG8/EG9/EK3/EK4/DC2 front suspension is same and compatible.
(ii)DC2 Typer 96 version and some EG4/EG8 rear suspension is "hub" type. Slot into the rear hub & not secured by bolts on the rear lower arms like (iii) & (iv).
(iii)Most EH9/EG4/EG5/EG6/EG8/EG9/DC2 onwards rear suspension is fork type and compatible. The suspension bushing is longer than (iv).
(iv)EK4/EK3/EK9 rear suspension is same fork type as (iii) but the suspension bushing is shorter than (iii).
(v)To lower ur car, u can just swap lowering springs on your stock suspension or to use adjustable suspension. See section (9) on camber kits.
Upgrade:
(a) For budget upgrades, KONI shocks with lowering springs is a common option. KONI shocks have 3 adjustable heights and u can also adjust the "hardness" of the shocks. This set-up is only gd for those with smaller budgets and drivers with mild driving habits. If u love hard cornerings, the shocks wont last more than 1yr. 1 new shock is abt $125 each and a set (4 pieces) of lowering springs is abt $200-300.
(b) For better performance, Coilovers are good. There are japan brands like TEIN and taiwan ones like BC etc. Usually newer coilovers are height adjustable with damping adjustment points for "hardness" level of the shocks. I find TEIN coilovers reliable and worth the $ spent. There is a series of coilovers from HR to SS for street racing to track use. U might want to check out the chart in TEIN webside to find out wat suits ur ride.
(c) When changing suspension, take note of (ii), (iii) and (iv). It is common for EG bros using TEIN coilovers designed for EK rides, u need to machine off to shorten yr rear lower arm metal bushing to fit the rear coilover.
(d) When u buy 2nd hand suspension set-up, it is best u send to a workshop to check for leaks. Coilovers are usually serviceable but the normal suspension like KONI is not.
(e) There is such thing as a "spring adjustor" (black rubber thingy) to wrap around yr springs to stiffen yr ride. Not a gd product coz it can slip off the springs and u will have a hard time getting it back in position. Anyway, if yr springs are getting softer.. u shd probably get a new set of springs.
9) ADJUSTABLE CAMBER KITS (Handling) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)EG front camber kit is different from EK.
(ii)EG & EK rear camber kit is same.
Upgrade:
(a) When u change ur suspension height or could be due to diff tyre size), the camber setting will be affected and u need to get adjustable camber kits to align yr tyres. It is common for ppl to lower their rides and ignore the camber settings, resulting is adnormal wear on the inside of the tyres. Proper camber setting will ensure proper traction.
(b) A budget set-up is to use adjustable camber kit for the front and stack washers for the rear.
10) ENGINE MOUNTINGS (Handling) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)There are 3 main engine mounts (left, right and bottom) and 2 small bushing (gearbox and air-con) in the engine bay.
(ii)OEM engine mounts are generally soft to allow engine free play. However, movements = lost energy.
(iii)The 3 main engine mounts for EG/EK/DC are same (except EK4 left & right, EK9 left & right and DC2r left).
(iv)The 2 small bushing for EG/EK/DC are same (except EK4 and EK9).
Upgrade:
(a) Easy & cheapo way to stiffen as well as strengthen the mounts is to inject silicon to cover up the hollow spaces. Make sure u use high temperature silicon and it is properly dried up before u install.
(b) Common alternative is to invest in energy suspension mount inserts. Ur engine will flex less at the expense of more vibrations.. so better think carefully before u venture to this. But this is important mod for big power engine set-ups.
11) SHIFTERS FOR MANUAL CARS (Handling) Rating 6/10
Info:
(i)2 main components. The shifter rods and the shifter.
(ii)The shifter rods for DOHC EG/EK are same except (EK9 and DC2R)
(iii)The shifter rods for SOHC EG/EK are same.
(iv)The shifters DOHC/SOHC EG/EK are same except for (EK9 and DC2R).
Upgrade:
(a) The stock gear shifter throw is too long. Changing to a short shifter will shorten yr shift throw. There are some common cheap short shifters for abt $60-80 where the base height is longer. u might have to check whether the shift rod touches yr exhaust piping when its installed. If so, u might need to go to an exhaust wkshop to adjust the exhaust piping slightly.
(b) For DOHC EG/EK, can upgrade to the EK9 or DC2r thicker shift rods and shorter shifters. Direct fit.
(c) There is aftermarket "energy bushing" for the shifter bushings. I'm currently using it and I can hardly feel any difference against a stock bushings.
12) COOLING (Engine) Rating 10/10
Info:
(i)5 main components is the radiator, coolant, radiator hoses, thermostat+fan switch and radiator cap.
(ii)For radiator, bigger is better and wider surface aids better cooling.
(iii)For coolant, use any type u like but make sure u dun run on pure water.. Yr coolants must have anti-rust properties.. or else u risk damanging the internal part of your engine block.
(iii)For radiator hoses, DOHC EG/EK/DC are bigger size then SOHC EG/EK.
(iv)For thermostat & fan switch, all EG/EK/DC are same.
(v)For radiator cap, oem comes in 1.1bar for all EG/EK/DC.
(vi)All SOHC ESI/LSI radiators come with single fin.
(vii)For EK3 and all DOHC EG/EK, the radiators come with double fin.
(viii)For DC2, the radiator is single fin, aluminium and long type. Best radiator among all.
(ix)Auto and manual car radiators are different so make sure u get the right radiator before u buy. Auto comes with extra piping outlets to cool transmission oil.
Upgrade:
(a) ESI/LSI in (vi) is beri prone to overheating. Easiest way to upgrade is to swap in a stock SOHC EK3 twin fin radiator. However, the DOHC radiator is more common but inlet and outlet sizes is slightly bigger. U have to force in yr stock rubber hose. I have previously used this set-up for a year without any problem with crack piping or leaks.
(b) Generally double fin radiators (vii) are good enough. There are many 3-fin thick aftermarket radiators for more coolant capacity or aluminium ones for lighter. Juz make sure you take note of point (iii).
(c) For upgrade to DC2 long radiators, u need to use the dc2/aftermarket air-con condenser that goes under the front mounting bracket. The mounting points to hold the radiator also need to be cut off and relocated to fit the DC2 legs.
(d)Radiator caps are also important to ensure enough pressure within the cooling system to circulate the coolant. 1.1 bar cap would be sufficient but for those who want improvements, u can upgrade to the 1.3bar caps.
(e)Silicone Radiator hoses are mainly for looks. But if u are using 1.3bar radiator caps, it may be good insurance to invest in silicone hoses.
(f)The stock thermostat and coolant fan switch are set to activate at higher coolant temperatures. If u want a cooler engine, u can upgrade to a Mugen/ARC low temperature thermostat and fan switch. It is important that both muz be changed together (thermostat+fan switch).. juz changing either 1 alone wont be as effective.
(g) For those stuck with single fin radiators with no budgets, a simple way to improve yr car cooling system is to put yr coolant fan to turn on direct/permanent. However, the set back is yr fan motor will wear out faster. All u need to do is plug out the socket from the fan switch and use a wire (paper clip) to connect the 2 points in the socket head. This will make yr fan run continuously whether the coolant is cold or warm.
13) THROTTLE BODIES (Engine) Rating 6/10
Info:
(i)There are 2 common oem types. The older version TB comes with the MAP sensor separately mounted on the engine firewall. The later/newer version come with the MAP sensors mounted DIRECTLY on the top of the tb.
(ii)SOHC ESI & EK3 have 56mm (measured at butterfly) throttle body.
(iii)DOHC EG6/EG9 from 1992 have 58mm (measured at butterfly) throttle body.
(iv)All DOHC EG/EK except those from (iii) and B20B, H22A have 60mm (measured at butterfly) throttle body.
(v)DC2R have 62mm (measured at butterfly) throttle body.
(vi)All oem TB are compatible (including the MAP & TPS sensors).
(vii)EG throttle bodies come with attached idle valve but EK throttle bodies do not have the idle valves. It is perfectly ok to bypass the coolant pipes if using a EK throttle body for an EG.
(viii)Bigger TB wont get u HP gains unless yr existing TB flow have become restrictive for your engine set-up. However, bigger TB makes yr car feel more responsive as for the same percentage of throttle opening, more air is flowing through.
Upgrade:
(a) For (ii) and (iii), Easy way to upgrade is to swap in a 60mm or 62mm throttle body. Just take note of point (i).
(b)If upgrade to a bigger throttle body, it is a must to port match the intake manifold inlet with the bigger throttle bore. Port matching the manifold could costs between $50-80.
(c)Typically if upgrade your engine (bigger cc/ higher compression) u need a bigger throttle body.
14) SPARK PLUG CABLES (Ignition) Rating 5/10
Info:
(i)All SOHC EG/EK spark plug cables are same.
(ii)All DOHC EG/EK/DC spark plug cables are same.
(iii)SOHC and DOHC spark plug cables are not compatible.
(iv)OEM cables are black-colored from NGK and gd enough.
Upgrade:
(a)There is little need to upgrade the cables if the ignition system is stock. If u need slight (i mean really little) gains, u can change to the blue NGK cables or apexi red cables.
(b)If you have upgraded to aftermarket ignition system, you have to be careful with the type and resistance level of the cables u using. Typically, if u using aftermarket ignition system like MSD, it would be a safer bet to use the MSD cables.
(c)AVOID unknown brands that are unheard of.. there are high chances of current leakage which can affect your car performance.
15) SPARK PLUGS (Ignition) Rating 6/10
Info:
(i)All SOHC and DOHC EG/EK spark plug size is the same.
(ii)SOHC and DOHC EG/EK typically use heat range 6 plugs.
(iii)EK9 and DC2r use heat range 7 plugs.
(iv)The applicable heat range usually correspond to the engine compression levels. For high compression or turbo engines, its appropriate to use a higher heat range (meaning "colder" plugs).
(v)Using plugs that are too "cold" for your engine will result in poorer engine performance and u risk fouling the plugs easily. Using plugs that are not cold enough will cause engine detonation.
Upgrade:
(a) Get the right spark plug heat range is more impt then the type of plug u use.
(b) Iridium plugs (denso, iriway, NGK) are the best but expensive.. follow by platinum plugs then the stock plugs (NGK R).. gains are really minimal too.
16) DISTRIBUTOR (Ignition) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)SOHC EG & EK distributors are same except for the connecting electrical socket.
(ii)DOHC EG/EK/DC2 distributors are same except for the connecting electrical sockets. EK and DC2 is same socket type.
(iii)SOHC and DOHC distributors are not compatible.
(iv)Honda distributors are well known for the weak design as the ignition coil sits inside the distributor and prone to high temperatures.
Upgrade:
(a)For highly modified engines, it may be neccessary to upgrade by using an external ignition coil mounted outside the distributor. The common external coils are bosch from inter-continental cars or the aftermarket MSD from usa. The important factor is to ensure that u use an appropriate distributor cap (avail fr MSD) and ignition cable to connect to the coil.
(b) the distributor can be manually adjusted to adjust yr ignition timing. If u want abit more response to yr low-mid end, u can ADVANCE the timing by lossening the 3 bolts securing the distributor.. turn away fr u (when u are facing the engine bay from the front of the car) is advancing and turning it the other away is retarding. However, u wont want to advance too much coz u can coz yr engine to "ping"=knocking=bad situation. Always be alert for pinging shd u advance yr ignition.. coz pinging=blown engine=$$ fly away.
17) INJECTORS (Fuel) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)SOHC and DOHC EG injectors are OBD1 & compatible.
(ii)DOHC EK and DC2 injectors are OBD2 & compatible.
(iii)All SOHC (except from LSI) and DOHC EG/EK (except from DC2r and EK9) injectors flow @240cc.
(iv)DC2r and EK9 injectors flow @280cc.
(v)It is relatively easy to mod OBD2 injectors to fit into EG OBD1 injector sockets.
(vi)Although DOHC injectors flow the same rate as SOHC, the spray pattern is differerent as the DOHC and SOHC engine head are different design.
(vii)Bigger injector doesnt mean better. The most important is to meet yr engine needs and to be able to control it. ie. through piggybacks or standalone ECUs.
Upgrade:
(a)It is common for mod engines of up to 230hp to use DC2r/EK9 injectors.
(b)H22a injectors flow higher rate but is peak & hold design so you must install the H22 injector balast or u will fry your ECU.(c)Older version EVOs injectors are much higher flows and use OBD1 sockets so it is also direct fit for EGs.
(d)Aftermarket injectors like RC engineering are common. Typically, the 440cc injectors can support almost 300hp.
18 ) FUEL PUMPS (Fuel) Rating 7/10
Info:
(i)All SOHC and DOHC EG/EK/DC2 fuel pumps are compatible.
(ii)The flow rates are SOHC EG/EK < DOHC EG/EK < DC2R & EK9.
Upgrade:
(a)It is generally not necessary to upgrade the pump unless ur fuel requirements have change with modified engine set-ups.
(b)DC2r, DC5 and EK9 pumps can support most NA set-ups. For the more extreme, just go for the Walbro 255 pump but make sure your have the proper means to tune yr engine.
19) FUEL REGULATORS (Fuel) Rating 6/10
Info:
(i)All SOHC and DOHC EG/EK/DC2 fuel regulators are compatible.
(ii)Only the DC2R & EK9 regulators flow higher pressure.
Upgrade:
(a)Adjustable fuel regulator are available and the most common brand is SARD. Try get a regulator with pressure gauge attached (No gauge=no readings on yr fuel pressure=how to adjust yr pressure??). Usually u need to get an adapter to fit the regulator on yr stock fuel rail (no adapter=no fit).
(b)When mounting aftermarket regulators, be wary of the mounting location and the rubber fuel line attached. There are many known cases of fuel line leaks which can expose yr car to fire.
20) FUEL OCTANE (Fuel) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)The applicable fuel type (octane level) usually correspond to the engine compression levels. For high compression or turbo engines, its appropriate to use a higher octane range.
Upgrade:
(a)Use appropriate fuel. On highly modded engines, use the highest octane level to avoid pinging/knocking. Dont waste $, pumping high octane fuel (the most expensive range at petrol kiosk) if yr engine compression is normal.
21) AIR INTAKE (Engine) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)Stock air intake pipe+airbox seems to be very restrictive for air flow but it does provide good shield over the engine bay hot air.
(ii)See section 13 on throttle body sizes. Stock DOHC air intake rubber pipes will be bigger. Stock DC2r intake pipes is the biggest.
(iii)Only the DC2R oem air intake system uses an open pod filter design and is the best among the oem intake system.
(iv)Cold air to engine = free HP gains. So rule of thumb is to get cold air to the engine.
(v)Typically for aftermarket air intake system is 4 components namely the filter, the intake pipe, heat shield from engine bay and Cold Air Intake pipe to engine bay.
Upgrade:
(a) For filters, K&N and many aftermarket open pod air filter are gd. BUt K&N tends to leave oily residue in the throttle body if not oiled properly.. steel mesh filter tend to leave dusty residue.. "cotton" material filter tend to "break off" and leave greenish residue when used too long.. Apexi have shown 1 of the best dyno results.
(b) For intake piping, there are fat tummy, simple 3" aluminium pipes etc. I wont be so concern about these except for Cold air intake pipings (eg. iceman) that lead directly to the bumper.. have to be careful with those when it rains.
(c) Make sure u get proper heatshield to avoid sucking the engine bay hot air if using open pod filter. There are replica mugen design or juz use industrial foam material to block off the heat.
(d) To get cold air into the engine bay, its common to use a flexible rubber hose/aluminum piping to connect from the front bumper up to the engine bay where yr open pod is located.
(e)There is alot of stuff like air chargers and "e68" thingy that are attached to the air intake. I have tried these on a dyno and the answer is.. CRAP!!!. dont waste yr $..
(f)Some ppl add washers to Lift the rear of the bonnet to cool the engine bay.. i think that is only useful when car is stationery.. bur hardly make a difference when car is moving. Further, u risk catching the attention of TP/LTA easily.
22) OIL CATCH TANK (Engine) Rating 6/10
Info:
(i)All SOHC & DOHC EG/EK/DC2 have oem oil catch breather tank behind the engine block to release crank pressure and divert air back to the engine via the PCV valve & to the intake manifold.
(ii)All SOHC & DOHC EG/EK/DC2 cam covers come with outlet to release head pressure back to the air intake pipe.
(iii)(i) & (ii) can leave oily residue in the intake manifold & intake pipe causing poor air flow.
Upgrade:
(a)Use oil catch tank to filter the oil vapor and release cold air back to the engine.
23) EXHAUST (Engine) Rating 9/10
Info:
(i)There are 4 components to the exhaust system, namely the extractor/header, the CAT, the mid pipe and the muffler.
(ii)For extractor/header, all SOHC EG/EK are compatible.
(iii)For extractor/header, all DOHC EG/EK/DC2 are compatible. However for those with b16b/b18/b20 blocks, the extractor/header length is longer to clear the block
(iv)Except for extractor/header, all SOHC and DOHC EG/EK/DC2 CAT and mid pipes are compatible. For mufflers, there is differentiation between 4dr or 3dr.
(v)Size of the mid pipes are: SOHC EG/EK < DOHC EG/EK < DC2/EK9. Design for the DC2 & EK9 mid pipes are unique and design for improved flow.
Upgrade:
(a) Aftermarket extractors come in 4-2-1 or 4-1 design. Generally 4-2-1 gives gd gains from mid-high rpm range while 4-1 improves mid range more.
(b)For the CAT, DC2 and EK9 are high flow cats. Cheapest way is to knock thru for straight flow or buy an aftermarket CAT. If u decide to knock thru, make sure u have the "fake" CAT mounted or u risk failing ur annual inspections. Avg price is about $70 to knock thru the CAT.
(c) the size of the mid piping is impt.. too thick car will feel laggy on low rpm range but feel super on high rpm. Too thin car will feel gd on low rpm but will not be as ideal on the high end. Prices range between $120-150 (no brand type) including labour.
(d) For the muffler, if U want big mufflers with nice bassy sound.. there are only 2 common legal choices.. the remus and supersprint. Make sure u buy with the original certificate for the exhaust. U need to go to the agent to document the transfer of the muffler to u (pay transfer fee). then go to the authorised workshop to install the muffler (pay labour charge abt $15-30). then go to any inspection centre for inspection (pay inspection costs abt $50+) but make sure that other parts (got CAT) of yr exhaust are "legal". If u pass, a letter will be issued to u and u have to keep it in the car in case kana spot check by TP/LTA.
10.ECU & Piggybacks
11.Interior
a) Some bros like the EG9 rear 2-seater seat for their EG 4dr. I like them too coz the weight of the seats are light compared to the stock ESI rear seats. However, the seats are not a direct swap. In order to fit the EG9 seats into yr car, u need to cut off 2 metal brackets from yr rear chasis. In addition, u need to get the EG9 head rest brackets and weld it to yr chasis or u cant slot in to use the EG9 headrest. Another way is juz use some custom brackets to support the head rest.
b) The DC2 rear seats are quite similar to the ESI seats minus the head rest. However, it is still much lighter than the ESI stock rear seats. If I'm not mistaken, The brackets (mentioned in (a)) have to be cut off as well to fit the DC2 rear seats.
c) If u intend to buy racing front seats like recaro, sparco etc, u can reuse yr stock railings but u need to send to workshops to weld on brackets so that the sport seats can be secured to yr rails. Average costs is abt $80. On the other hand, if u gt $, u can juz buy the original sports rails and buy the customised leg brackets for abt $40. If u buy 2nd hand seats with rails from a different model, muz note that EK and EG leg mounting brackets are not a direct fit. However, only 1 of the rear leg bracket needs to be mod to make EK to EG compatible. If u buy DC2 typeR recaro front seats, the rails are a direct fit for EG.
